Superspy's Turbo Conversion Diary (lots of pictures) - Page 2 - theMGZR.co.uk :: MG ZR forum
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Old 09-08-2008, 21:33   #11 (permalink)
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04/08/08

Due to the shoddy state of the clutch, I decided to buy a new one. I opted not to go for a performance one this time as I expect to be running quite a bit more torque, but no more engine speed, and hopefully the torque delivery will be smooth on the nitrous. If the replacement I got slips, I'll take it as a lesson learned and buy an uprated one, but I think it should be ok for now

here is the old one off



unfortunatley I didnt think to take a pic of the new one to compare the friction plates, but what i can say is that the overall thickness of the plates was roughly double.

Heres the new clutch on the engine.



And a comparison of the new and old clutch release bearing.



Now something I forgot to mention was that when I picked up the gearbox again, after the rebuild, I was told that none of the bearings inside the box actually had anything wrong with them (even though me and dad thought they were a bit shoddy) so as it happens, there was nothing wrong with the box itself, and it must have just been the clutch release bearing making all the noise. lol

2 other things I found out are that the box I have actually has the Type B diff in it, as opposed to the Type A, which is cool, and also that the gearbox had been opened before. The reason I know this is because somebody at somepoint has replaced a bearing, except they have cheaped out and fitting a NASP one instead of a TURBO one. Its actually quite sad, as the difference is probably about 20 quid, but it would probably have cost loads in labour, so why they didnt do it properly I have no idea.

08/08/08

On the triple 8 day i decided enough was enough and it was time to remove the dreaded rear subframe from the ZR.



Removal was pretty simple, basically I needed to take out 4 bolts from the chassis, and undo one of the connections to the steering column inside the car to allow the steering UJ to drop out of the floorpan. Also one of the power steering pipes needed to be removed, no biggy.

And that, so far guys, is all I have, obviously that takes us up to yesterday, but I promise there is more to come.

One more funny story I have to share about stuff with this.

Before the engines were out, me and dad did the CV boots on the 220 driveshafts, the old ones were a bit perished and ****ty so it made sense to do them while they were off the car. This job that should have taken an hour or so, ended up taking 4 hours! lol

We had to fight with the rubber boots to get them on in the first place as they are mega tight. The clips you get with them are an absolute ******* if you dont have the right tools, which we didnt, lol. Also, to get the cv of the end of the shaft you have to hit it pretty hard, we had done the outer cv, and were hitting the bearings off the inner one to remove it properly, except we were holding the outer cv instead of the shaft, so as we hit it, the friggin outer cv came out again, and we had to remove it and start all over again, rofl.

To add insult to injury, the inner cv is made up of 3 roller bearings to hold it inplace in the housing that goes into the gearbox. You have to tap these bearings off the shaft, and by tap, i mean ****. unfortunately dad slipped with the hammer and knocked one of the bearing shells off, and all of the roller pins fell out, so we then spent the next 30-40 minutes rebuilding the roller bearing, it was a right pain i the ass. lol

What do we all think so far then? Hope you are all enjoying it!
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Old 11-08-2008, 22:11   #12 (permalink)
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did some more on the project tonight, not a lot, but it all adds up

11/08/08

Decided it was time to remove the rear subframe off the coupe.

first we had to move the coupe around, as it was horizontal across my drive, which is on a slant, and when jacking a car up is dangerous, so we moved it long ways instead. and just as we started to jack it up, it started raining....again...



after a lot of cursing and phrase such as "how the f*** do we do it" and "why does it start f***ing raining every time we f***ing start to do any work on the f***ing thing" it actually stopped raining.... lol, so we carried on.

while we were waiting for the rain i decided to take a few random shots of the surroundings.





anyway, on with removing stuff, needed to take off the wheels and undo all the bolts again, that we put back in to move the car, lol



and stacey was doing her photography ninja thing again, popping up and taking random photos from all over the place







when removing a rear subframe there are 4 additional bolts, 2 on each side that go into the chassis. you also need to remember the undo the steering column UJ so you can drop the subframe down though, this is the easiest bolt to get to.





then we removed the subframe...






by kicking the **** out of it...






both subframes for comparison.



and staceys addition to the evening, apart from taking random photos...
chief can opener.... (not for me I might add, i dont drink, it was for dad)


now im at a bit of a pickle with what to do about the rear subframe.

basically its a case of either use the 220 one but aparently i may have issues with bulkhead clearance (not entirely sure which bit though), or, remove the rear engine mount and weld it onto the zr one, meaning I get to keep my nice zr steering rack that I like, but i'll also have to modify/swap the power steering pipework to fit aswell. hhhmmmmm
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Old 13-08-2008, 17:48   #13 (permalink)
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I cut the engine mount off the 220 subframe and welded it to the ZR one simply because the 220 subframe the steering rack would not meet up with the universal joint on the steering column, and i really wanted to keep the much newer ZR rack.

I used the p/s pipes from the 220 including the p/s cooler

I also did my wiring myself, it was an absolute ball ache but because i did it myself i made it look very factory (apart for the obvious small zr ecu plug which is taped up under the fuse box as thats part of the car loom)

The ZR fan wires the oe ones simply just need wiring to the new fans and a bigger fuse in it's place, thats how my fans are wired up so they come on when the temp gauge tells them too rather than some of the bodged efforts of switches on dash boards
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Old 13-08-2008, 19:27   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKD4V1D View Post
I cut the engine mount off the 220 subframe and welded it to the ZR one simply because the 220 subframe the steering rack would not meet up with the universal joint on the steering column, and i really wanted to keep the much newer ZR rack.

I used the p/s pipes from the 220 including the p/s cooler
is the power steering cooler absolutely necessary? because tbh id rather bin it so i have space for the front mount im going to be getting. the zr doesnt have one as standard does it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roverman View Post
I was going to say have you any more cleavage shots ?
i have a fantastic one that id love to post, but im pretty sure she'd crucify me, lol
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Old 14-08-2008, 21:15   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Superspy View Post
is the power steering cooler absolutely necessary? because tbh id rather bin it so i have space for the front mount im going to be getting. the zr doesnt have one as standard does it?
The zr p/s is powered by the zr pump maybe the 220/420 pump creates more heat hense why it has a cooler, but theirs that much room behind the front bumper the tiny little cooler isn't going to stop your front mount. It certainly won't be stopping me if i keep my car. I've got both fans fitted from the 220 turbo and a standard 220 rad and intercooler and theirs still plenty of room left.
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Old 14-08-2008, 21:57   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UKD4V1D View Post
The zr p/s is powered by the zr pump maybe the 220/420 pump creates more heat hense why it has a cooler, but theirs that much room behind the front bumper the tiny little cooler isn't going to stop your front mount. It certainly won't be stopping me if i keep my car. I've got both fans fitted from the 220 turbo and a standard 220 rad and intercooler and theirs still plenty of room left.
yeah i know the standard intercooler will go as its behind the slam panel obviously. but the front mount i'll be getting is pretty big, and with it being fitted in the lower grill im going to need to chop away some of the crash bar i think, so i cant see there being enough room for the ps cooler aswell. im just wondering what would happen if i removed it. I cant see the ps fluid boiling surely?

Quote:
Originally Posted by urban_racer View Post
great thread! what bhp does the turbo engine put out?
standard 197.with the front mount i'll eventually be getting, along with a steady 12 psi, IT downpipe and decatted exhaust, open filter with a proper cold air feed (possibly the best cold air feed possible on this conversion, more details on that later ) im hoping i'll be anywhere between 210 and 220.

IF i hook the nitrous up on a fixed hit this time it will be on a 25 shot MAXIMUM, until i get a progressive controller in which case 50 will be the most, taking it somewhere near 270. After that its forged internal time as there seems to be a lot of debate as to what the standard pistons will take. Most people on RT basically say any more than 250 and you're asking for trouble, where as one of the guys from WoN had one with a standard bottom end running a 100 shot with no problems what so ever.
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Old 14-08-2008, 22:20   #17 (permalink)
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sorry guys but you're going to have to wait for those pics. i just tried doing the bushes on the front subframe, and being the muppet that i am, didnt consider that because the brake reaction bars are not attatched to anything, when you try undoing the nut on the end of them, they just spin.

or more accurately, i did consider it, but i was hoping they would be shaped in a way that stopped this happening. fs, even got myself set up with it all in the living room using one of our best bath towels as a carpet protector aswell. never mind, i'll have to have a go 2moro by removing one of the suspension arms off the car to use to apply force in the opposite direction to stop it spinning. watch this space
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Old 14-08-2008, 22:25   #18 (permalink)
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just a little update regarding the p/s cooler. a quick search on rovertech has revealed that its not really needed, and its on the low pressure side of the flow, so i can simple cut the pipes out, and replace with a bit of rubber fuel hose, lol.
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Old 15-08-2008, 13:45   #19 (permalink)
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yeah thats the same with me, like this one for instance, neither of us noticed until i posted it, lol

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Old 16-08-2008, 14:01   #20 (permalink)
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got a shiny piece of metal through the post today.

can anybody tell me what it is? all you turbo owners will know straight away, so DONT answer, see if any of the turbo virgins know

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