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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Non VVC K Series lumps originally in the ZR consist of either the 1.4 16v (105), or the 1.8 16v (120).

These engines are IDENTICAL apart from the engine capacity (cc) and the ECU map. The 1.4 uses either an R65 gearbox, or later models used the IB5. The 1.8 uses a PG1, just like the VVC engines.

2 alternative Non VVC options that you could retrofit are the 1.6 16v, or the 1.8 16v (135). As per the 105 and the 120, the 1.6 is exactly the same bar engine capacity (and possibly map, I'd imagine it is different.)

The 135 engine mechanically is the same as the 120 engine. However, it has a VVC style inlet manifold, a 52mm Throttle body (I think), different camshafts and a different engine map.

The main gains are to be had from the camshafts IMO, as they really help the 1.8 breathe better at high revs, something it struggles to do in the 120 guise.

As far as I'm aware, all Non VVC Pistons are safe up to 155-160bhp. I don't think any standard map would be of use at this level of power though, despite them being self learning. Sometimes my 120 map struggles with idle at 135ish BHP, in particular on cold winter mornings when the engine hasn't warmed up, particularly around town. I dare say it would have a real struggle if I was to stick some larger cams (some Piper 270s) & a better head on it.

Powertrain's Figures for the differing Non VVC K Series Engines...


Obviously there are various tuning options for the Non VVC engines. I'll just point you to some threads that may be of interest rather than go on....

Common Engine Tuning Options
AAautosport 1.4 to 1.6 Conversion
PTP RS140 Information

Side note to 1.4 owners about the 135 add-ons
Unless you're going to increase the engine capacity of your K Series, don't bother with the 135 add-ons (Cams,Inlet Manifold, 52mm Throttle Body). The cams have been proven to lose power on the 1.4, and it's widely acknowledged on this forum that the VVC style inlet manifold isn't worth bothering with, and some even say it will lose power. The 52mm TB has a similar reputation to the VVC Inlet on the 1.4, barely worth bothering with, any difference will be negligible.

VVC Inlet on 120/105
Should you stick a VVC inlet on a 120/105 or even a 1.6, do not use the VVC injectors. Use the original 120/105/1.6 ones or it will overfuel. Oh and portmatch it to the cylinder head.

Feel free to add to this thread.
 

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So will the VVC be able to push out 200bhp with a remap, breathing mods and cams, and i dont think mine is a learning ECU at a 51 plate?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The only way you're getting 200bhp out of a K is forced induction, or ITBs and some lairy cams/high rev limit + deep pockets.

And they do self learn to a certain extent.
 

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The only way you're getting 200bhp out of a K is forced induction, or ITBs and some lairy cams/high rev limit + deep pockets.

And they do self learn to a certain extent.
well you said the non vvc pistons are ok for up 160 bhp so i assumed the vvc pitosn will be able to get to 200bhp with out melting lol. So a very very deep pocket will be needed then? get a VVC thread up then lol
 

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Discussion Starter #16
well you said the non vvc pistons are ok for up 160 bhp so i assumed the vvc pitosn will be able to get to 200bhp with out melting lol. So a very very deep pocket will be needed then? get a VVC thread up then lol
185-190 seems to be what people say for the VVC pistons. I don't know as much about the VVC engines.
 

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well you said the non vvc pistons are ok for up 160 bhp so i assumed the vvc pitosn will be able to get to 200bhp with out melting lol. So a very very deep pocket will be needed then? get a VVC thread up then lol
185-190 seems to be what people say for the VVC pistons. I don't know as much about the VVC engines.
Look at nasty and Stevo they have spebnt thousands on getting theres to 190+ bhp
 

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Non VVC K Series lumps originally in the ZR consist of either the 1.4 16v (105), or the 1.8 16v (120).

These engines are IDENTICAL apart from the engine capacity (cc) and the ECU map.
No face palms or abuse if im being really stupid lol......
as the lumps are 'identical' Is it possible to do a 1.4 to 1.8 conversion the same way as you can do the 1.4 to 1.6 conversion ? + new cranks ?
 
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