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Hey, as its been getting dark earlier i have noticed that wen my music is played reasonably loud, my headlights dim every time there is a beat. I.e like they are flashing to the beat........as amusing as it is I dont want it happening.

So was just wondering if any1 knew i connect a power cap to my amp, is it gonna drain less power out of the battery?!?

Any suggestions would be very helpful!!

Cheers
 

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The cap fills in the power i gather from what John tols me....so that it doesnt drain you power for the running of ya zed....!

I think....as he's got 2 huge fuckas....so it dont effect his car power from the single 12V!



Or you can stick in another battery...bit pricey though
 

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A cap won't stop your lights flashing. It is mainly for show !!

If your system is drawing more power than the battery has then your lights will flash no matter what

This happened to me and after talking to an expert (Who I trust immensley as he could have sold me a £200 cap I liked the look of) i put a diesel batery in and it made a huge difference

I think it is something to do with how the cap draws the energy TBH
 

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muz said:
A cap won't stop your lights flashing. It is mainly for show !!

If your system is drawing more power than the battery has then your lights will flash no matter what

This happened to me and after talking to an expert (Who I trust immensley as he could have sold me a £200 cap I liked the look of) i put a diesel batery in and it made a huge difference

I think it is something to do with how the cap draws the energy TBH

the cap just keeps ure voltage topped up so when u hit the deep notes u got a constant feed of v's. not going to explain the fundamentals of caps but as muz said they are practicly only for show. the reason ure hd dips is because ure drawing all the current from the altertnator. ure alt can only supply a certain amount of amps and if ure sub box requires alot of it other parts of the car are gonna get affected. the headlights is the next biggesat current zapper hence y they did ure taking some of their current away to keep ure subs pumping.

to get round this upgrade ure altenator to a one that can supply more current. a deisel battery just discharges slower than a normal battery (deep cycle) so it dosnt need to recharge (altenator again) as much which is y it probbally worked for muz. if ure headlight just dim a little go for a deep cycle battery (around £120) or upgrade urealternatortosupply enough juice.
 

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i put a second deep cycle battery onto my car and split charged it so that the amps and stereo were all working of this battery and does not interfear with the cars battery at all. by split charging it you are only charging it when the car is running, so will still not affect the drain on your car. the optima deep cycle battery i use was about £200 and to split charge you can get a realy for about £20 me thinks
 

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express105 said:
i put a second deep cycle battery onto my car and split charged it so that the amps and stereo were all working of this battery and does not interfear with the cars battery at all. by split charging it you are only charging it when the car is running, so will still not affect the drain on your car. the optima deep cycle battery i use was about £200 and to split charge you can get a realy for about £20 me thinks
wont help, if ure alternator can only supply 60 amps and ure subs take 70amp ure feecked u cant run ure amps at peak efficency regardless what u do. all this buy this and buy wont work. u can buy items that cause less drain like deisel battery but the cheapest route is the direct method get a bloody power supply that can dish out the current u require.

although if u can supply enough current that setup above ensures ure subs get top priority over other gismos in the car. the power cap helps with this to a degree.
 

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look into geting a battery of a derv......ive never had any problems with the lights dimming......and shes only running 140.9 db...
 

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mustang351 said:
look into geting a battery of a derv......ive never had any problems with the lights dimming......and shes only running 140.9 db...
you still got that one 12" sub in?

Planet Audio wasnt it? sounded nice
 

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None of this applies to me but its amazin how upgrading your ice can get so complicated. :wman:
Good to see there are plenty of peeps with lots of sound advice to pass on to others :up:
 

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You have no idea how complicated it can get

Seen peeps spending 12k on a system not including fancy multimedia !

And using one amp per speaker pair is nice but very complicated!

I.E. 4 amps in a boot running a set of 3 way components and 1 sub!
 

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muz said:
You have no idea how complicated it can get

Seen peeps spending 12k on a system not including fancy multimedia !

And using one amp per speaker pair is nice but very complicated!

I.E. 4 amps in a boot running a set of 3 way components and 1 sub!

or it goes the other way, 1 of my amps will do front components, rear speakers (eg 6x9's) AND 2 subs thats ducking complicated.
 

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muz said:
You have no idea how complicated it can get

Seen peeps spending 12k on a system not including fancy multimedia !

And using one amp per speaker pair is nice but very complicated!

I.E. 4 amps in a boot running a set of 3 way components and 1 sub!
its daunting tasks like that which made me sell my system well not really i just needed cash, would u care to explain what would need doing in my old setup muz? :p

heres the list

Sony CD-90r Deck
Sony XDP-4000x DSP
Rainbow Profi Vanadium Extreme Kickbass 3-ways
Rainbow MPA 6.60 (1 of 25 in the world and only one in uk might i add) 6ch amp
Xtant 404m 4 Channel amp
Rainbow Vanadium SW E 300 Sub

think thats it off the top of my head shame i had to sell it really woulda have been a really nice sounding system :(

but if i ever do come into some cash im hunting down a Sony XES - Z50 source deck for sure :twisted:
 
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