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Fitting AVO springs to an MG ZR.

I have written this to help those people who wish to carry out this relatively easy modification themselves. It is not particularly difficult and is one of the easiest cars I have had to strip the suspension on.


Before starting you will need the following tools:

Large Socket set/Ring spanners
Allen Keys. 6mm and 5mm
18mm ring spanner
Jack
Axle stands
Suspension spring compressor

Front suspension.

1. Jack and trestle the front of the car and remove the road wheels.

2. Remove the bolt through the lower arm of the anti roll bar.



3. Remove the bolt holding the brake pipe bracket and unclip the brake pipe and any additional sensor cables






4. Undo the lower arm pinch bolt, and disconnect from the bottom of the hub assembly. NB. A good soaking overnight of this area in WD40 will probably assist in parting the 2 assmeblies as they can be really difficult to remove from each other. Avoid getting any on the disks or pads though.





I would advise having something to rest the hub onto so it doesn't stretch the brake cables. I professionally used a tin of paint as that was all I had to hand, but it does the job.

5. Open the bonnet, and mark the top of the suspension strut in relation to the car. Disconnect the 3 bolts at the top of the suspension strut.





Hold the strut as you remove the last bolt to stop it falling out. If you are wondering about the black ring in the picture, yours probably wonthave this as it is the bracket for an E-TECH brace.
NB. You might want to try slackening the top damper retaining nut whilst it is still installed as it can be a little of a wrestling match with it on the floor. To do this you will need the 19mm ring spanner and an Allen wrench. Fit the ring spanner on the hut and then fit the Allen key.



The Allen wrench is to hold the damper rod from turning as you undo the nut. THIS NUT IS VERY TIGHT! If you cannot undo the nut as this stage it may be because of the tension of the spring. If you do get it to loosen DO NOT REMOVE IT!

6. With the strut removed, fit the spring compressor tool and compress the spring 2 or 3 cm



Some people say that this tool is not required, I would advise differently. It takes a lot of the force off the top retaining bolt which is difficult enough to remove plus once the nut gets to the end of its thread it can fire off under the force of the spring, and if that catches you in the face or eye, well I'll leave that to your own imagination.

7. Fit the 19mm ring spanner to the top nut and an Allen key to the damper rod (as in previous picture). Holding the damper rod to prevent it turning, undo the nut and remove the washer, noting which way they came off.

8. Either remove the spring compressor tool now or just remove the top mount and the spring, feeding the rubber boot through the centre of the springs.

9. The springs are considerable different lengths as you can see.



On replacing the spring with then new AVO spring, ensure that the tail of the spring sit correctly in the recess in the lower mount, and after feeding the boot back through, that it too and the top mount also fit onto the top tail of the spring correctly.

10. On my ZR there was an arrow on the top of the top mount that pointed outwards. Make sure that this is fitted the same way, fit the washer and top bolt, and tighten to 40Nm. NOTE: you will not need the spring compressor to fit these as they are much shorter than the standard springs.

11. Assuming that you have made note of the markings and the strut is assembled correctly, offer the strut back up into the suspension housing and refit the top 3 nuts (15mm) and tighten to 30Nm

12. Fit the hub housing back onto the lower end of the strut ensuring that it engages fully and fit the pinch bolt and tighten to 80Nm

13. Fit the lower anti-roll bar link and tighten to 60Nm

14. Refit the brake pipe bracket and re-clip the sensor cables

15. Fit the wheels and lower to the ground (and it will be lower to the ground now :wink: )


Rear Suspension.

Apologies here, but I didn't get the chance to take any pictures, but the job is even easier than the front. Because of this, I have used the instructions and diagrams from the workshop manual.

 
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